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Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5164G
maradiliko
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# 17.04.2024 - 09:10:37
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Ibet most people have a watch they’ve convinced themselves they’re going to have one day, no matter how out of reach it might always be. The Patek ref. 5164 has long been my white whale. Like James Stacey, I'm a lover of a versatile GMT, and the Aquanaut is - in my opinion -- the king.
When I wrote about the discontinuation of the ref. 5164A, I called it a "fan-favorite. " That might be a bit much to say about a watch that cost over $40, 000 and was nearly completely unobtainable by anyone but VIPs at Patek, but it was a great watch to imagine wearing and even better if you could actually get lucky enough to own one. The cool design, comfortable strap, and the sporty specs (from water-resistance to steel case) and black colorway all made it the pinnacle of "quiet luxury" before quiet luxury was a thing.

There's an elegance to the Aquanaut Travel Time, which hasn't changed with the new ref. 5164G. I wear my Rolex GMT-Master II almost every time I travel, but there's something so cool about the tactile experience of using the pushers on the left-hand side of the case. While it's relatively easy to use a "flyer" GREENWICH MEAN TIME (GMT) to set your new timezone (unscrew the crown and pull out to the appropriate position in order to jump the hour forward or back), there's nothing like using the drivers on the ref. 5164. The top pusher advances the hour hand by one hour for each click, while the bottom takes the hours back. Either way, a skeletonized hour hand keeps tracking your home period but hides, uncluttering the actual dial wh Two apertures track time or night in the home and local time zone (blue for evening, white for day). It's a beautiful symmetrical watch with the date on a subdial at 6 o'clock.
This type of style has a long history in Patek, dating back to the early 1960s using the ref. 2597 Travel Time Calatrava. As James Stacey mentioned in his Hands-On with all the 5164R in 2019, the particular movement in the 2597 originated from the mind of Louis Cottier - the father of the worldtime - which means that any ref. 5164 follows in an important linage associated with creativity. But the bold design and style and sportiness of the Aquanaut Travel Period is probably far beyond what Cottier could have ever imagined.
While the ref. 5164A is no longer available, Patek's choice to continue typically the long-running reference with another new version in precious metal was somewhat predictable. I had hoped that Patek would introduce a new Aquanaut Journey Time with a new reference within steel. It would have likely been the biggest release regarding Watches & Wonders in a quiet year like this, but it wouldn't have been in line while using brand's decision to avoid steel sports models for now.

It also wouldn't have made much sense as the Aquanaut Travel Moment ref. 5164 remained within the catalog inside rose gold, therefore two generations of watches being in often the catalog together was unlikely. The new white gold version brings back a white-metal option to the catalog, using the same caliber 26‑330 S C FUS movement, so yes, this is mostly a case metal and dial/strap color change. But it also changes how the view wears on the wrist.
The actual Aquanaut Traveling Time continues to be one of the most comfortable-wearing sports timepieces on the market, with a great custom-cut rubber band and a deployant clasp. The case still measures a slim 10. 2mm thick having a 40. 8mm measurement from 2 to 8 o'clock. The particular lugs also drop down nicely to hug the wrist. But in gold, the watch starts to feel top-heavy, a problem with many precious metal sports watches on straps instead of bracelets : that heavy case material can throw off the balance. It also means that Patek has reduced the exact sportiness of the watch in another, more practical way, together with the water resistance now down to 30m from 120m from the 5164A. Either metallic came with a display caseback, but unfortunately the new water resistance makes me a little more hesitant to imagine taking the Aquanaut into rapid well - the very aqua.
However , the question of fit and stability is a personal preference, just like the new dial color. While Rolex has a penchant with regard to giving options on options of colors to fit different customers' preferences, that's not the path Patek likes to take. Just like their confidence inside the materials they want to use (customer demand be damned), they also have a strong layout sense. After a few quiet years of releases, I would have imagined Patek would have wanted the “pop” of hype that would have come with releasing a "khaki" Aquanaut Vacation Time in white gold or platinum or something bolder throughout platinum. But , there's probably something to be said regarding Patek trying to continue to cool demand. Prices for the 5164A have slowly decreased, not to retail, however it's a start.
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Instead, we got the opaline blue-gray switch, embossed Aquanaut pattern, as well as white gold case and a $63, 040 price tag. Based on the photos, I was afraid the call would be too light blue to become wearable for someone like me who likes something more low-key. Whilst it's not the classic 5164A I've dreamed of for years, it seems darker in person and also shifts along with the light. That means it feels like it could be a decent daily put on option if you're so lucky.
It will be a bit longer before We get the Aquanaut Travel Time period of the dreams. Although it's not the watch I wanted to see, it's the one we've got. Undoubtedly, the 5164G will stick around for a while to continue on the right now 13-year run of the research (the longest-lived reference from the catalog, I actually believe). It seems unlikely which Patek might kill a brand new release just to introduce the brand-new model one year later. In the meantime, plenty of people will enjoy the new 5164G. To steal any line through James, this remains our pick for the coolest modern Patek Philippe. I'll still keep this dream of a good Aquanaut Take a trip Time in metal, but this is the watch I need right now, while I save up a bit more for the day that will Patek provides back my very own white whale.
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